There was one thing about volcano climbing that I had overlooked prior to coming here in 1989. Volcanic rock is porous and water does not lie readily on its surface. So off I went with camping gear and only a litre of water for the ascent of Gunung Agung in Bali. This was a laudible plan because the weather is invariably clear in the morning and cloudy in the afternoon. So it made sense to be up on the crater rim for sunrise rather than sunset. This nice idea was thwarted by a raging thirst at my chosen camp spot 50 metres below the crater rim. At sunset, the visibilty from the summit had been, as expected, all of 10 metres, but I had planned to wait for the clouds to disperse in the night, hence the tent. There I sat in the thick evening mist, tent erect, stove out, but no water, and throat as dry as sandpaper after lugging this gear 2000 metres up from the roadhead. Can I really stand this all night just for a view tomorrow?
The thirst-enforced night descent was most unpleasant, lowlighted by a 5-metre plunge over an ashy cliff that broke beneath my feet in the pitch darkness. Luckily the landing was as soft as the cliff I`d just stepped over.
Later therefore over on Lombok, the decision to hire guides was a no-brainer. They knew where the few puddles of drinkable water lay on Gunung Rindjani. You never stop learning.

School-children beneath
Gunung Rindjani

Mother and children at Batu Qok
on slopes of Gunung Rindjani

Children at Batu Qok on
slopes of Gunung Rindjani

Boy at Batu Qok on slopes
of Gunung Rindjani

Porters at second camp
on Gunung Rindjani

Boy at Batu Qok on slopes
of Gunung Rindjani

Between Batu Qokand Senaru,
lower slopes of Gunung Rindjani

Trying my boots for size,
son of lodge-owner, Besakim, Bali

Another porter`s break
on Gunung Rindjani

Looking down at Gunung
Rindjani`s crater

Final slopes of Gunung
Rindjani`s summit cone

Looking down at Gunung
Rindjani`s crater

Besakim temple, Gunung
Agung behind

Curious children in Besakim, Bali

Wife and daughter of lodge-owner,
Besakim, Gunung Agung

Gunung Agung, Bali, from
Gunung Rindjani, Lombok

Mayura Waterpark, Lombok,
with Gunung Rindjani behind

Gunung Agung, Bali, from
Gunung Rindjani, Lombok

Looking down at Gunung
Rindjani`s crater

Girl at Besakim, Bali,
daughter of lodge-owner

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