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Masherbrum Two, or Far West, was advertised by Mark Miller in his commercial expedition brochure as being 7200 metres high. Looking back, one couldn`t blame him for this exaggeration, because the Italian team that had made the first ascent, a year before Mark saw it, had established it as such. And it would enhance its appeal to punters like me who wanted to climb something over the magic 7000 mark. In the event, somewhere around 6800 metres would have been more accurate. But nobody cared. Seen from the approach to Masherbrum One it is a beautiful mountain, and that`s all that concerned the 15 successful ascentionists on our 1991 trip. One of those was Norman Croucher, the double amputee mountaineer, who was attracted by the short approach to the start of the climbing. The last thing he wants is to wear out the sensitive skin of his leg-stumps on the walk-in, before even setting foot on the hill. Here he is climbing the last five metres of the summit cornice, "with a little help from my friends". The day before Vic had tried a more direct route on wildly overhanging ice to the right. Struggling to extract enough oxygen from the thin air to feed his pumped arms, he fell off, held by an ice-screw out of sight near his knees. Vic`s much-teased rabbit food diet, designed to keep his bodyweight low enough to meet such challenges, had let him down. |
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